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Showing posts with label pensacola. Show all posts
Showing posts with label pensacola. Show all posts

Thursday, March 19, 2020

Q: Which was first? St. Augustine or Pensacola? A: Neither!

San Miguel de Gualdape was the first European/African settlement in North America.

by Dale Cox

Was the first settlement of Europeans and Africans in
the continental United States somewhere near Sapelo Island,
home to the beautiful old Sapelo Island Lighthouse?
Joanne Dale / stock.adobe.com
The Florida cities of St. Augustine and Pensacola engage in a (mostly) good-natured debate over which is the oldest European community in the continental United States.

Pensacola stakes its claim on a settlement established there in 1559 by the explorer Tristan de Luna. The colony failed, however, and was abandoned until the return of the Spanish to Pensacola Bay in 1698.

St. Augustine, in turn, is the oldest continuously occupied European settlement in North America. Pedro Menendez de Aviles founded the ancient Spanish city in 1565, six years after Luna's attempt at Pensacola.

Both cities are beautiful, and both defend their claims with exceptional community pride. Pensacola was the site of the first settlement in today's Florida, even if it did not last. St. Augustine, on the other hand, has been there for 355 years.

Spanish settlers first built the city of San Miguel de Gualdape
somewhere on the Georgia coast in 1526.
Each city has a basis for its claim. Neither, however, was the first European settlement in the continental United States. That title belongs to San Miguel de Gualdape, a town settled somewhere on the Georgia coast in 1526.

It is worth noting, of course, that Native Americans were here for thousands of years before the first Spanish explorers. It should also be remembered that Juan Ponce de Leon - who later "discovered" Florida - founded Caparra, Puerto Rico, in 1508.

All but forgotten in United States history, Lucas Vazquez de Ayllon brought the first large scale colonization attempt ashore in what is now South Carolina on August 9, 1526.

It was a disaster from the start. Ayllon's flagship, El Capitana, wrecked on a sandbar, and the vital supplies aboard were lost. The colonists cut timber and built a replacement vessel. Christened La Gavarra, she was the first tall ship built in the continental United States. The provisions and other supplies, however, could not be replaced.

Lucas Vazquez de Ayllon 
Ayllon brought 600-700 men, women, and children with him, and they began to sicken and die almost immediately. Food supplies evaporated, and the site of the initial landing did not look promising for long-term occupation. Exploring parties were sent out, bringing back intelligence of a more-suitable location on a mighty river some 200 miles to the south.

Ordering his ships to carry the women, children, and sick down the coast to the new location, Ayllon mounted the able-bodied men on his remaining horses and started overland to meet the ships at the river described by his scouts.

The new site was somewhere on the coast of the modern state of Georgia. Most historians identify Ayllon's river with today's Sapello Sound, but the mouth of the Altamaha River and St. Simons Sound are also possibilities.

The new city was christened San Miguel de Gualdape on September 29, 1526, the day of the Festival of St. Michael. Archaeologists are searching for its site, but have yet to find it.

The Altamaha River flows past Darien, Georgia. The town of
San Miguel was somewhere in the area.
Things did not go well for the settlers of San Miguel. Starvation stalked the settlement, and the death rate soared as the colonists suffered from disease and exposure. They also made matters worse by forcibly taking food from local Native American communities.

Lucas Vazquez de Ayllon died at San Miguel de Gualdape on October 18, 1526. Hundreds of the other colonists went to the grave with him.

San Miguel was abandoned in November 1526 after a series of mutinies and North America's first-recorded slave uprising. Only 150 of the settlers survived to make it back to the Spanish settlements in the Caribbean.

The attempt to found a settlement on the Georgia coast ended in death and failure more than 30 years before Spanish soldiers set foot at Pensacola or St. Augustine.

The map below shows Sapello Sound, where many scholars believe the colony was located:





Thursday, January 23, 2020

The Boy in the Barrel: A Future Pirate's First Ship

"A branch of a tree his mast, a blanket his sail."

by Dale Cox

Editor's note: To provide readers with more information about William Augustus Bowles, the real person behind the pirate treasure stories still heard in eastern Jackson County, Florida, historian and author Dale Cox is writing a series of new articles. The life and adventures of Bowles and his crews will be commemorated on May 1-2 during Pirate & Heritage Days at Three Rivers State Park.

The signing of a declaration of war against Spain at Estiffanulga Bluff in 1800 (please see GOD SAVE MUSKOGEE: Pirate War on the Apalachicola) brought the enigmatic adventurer William Augustus Bowles into direct conflict with that country. But who was Bowles? And how did his story begin?

The future adventurer and pirate was born in Maryland in ca. 1763 and was thirteen when war erupted between Great Britain and its American colonies. "An artless school-boy, perfectly unacquainted with any mode of life beyond what he had learnt at his father's farm," according to the interviewer who wrote his autobiography, Bowles joined a Loyalist regiment and entered the service of King George III. 

The Battle of Monmouth, where Bowles claimed to fight in a
"flank company." From a painting by Emanuel Leutze.
Berkley Library
He claimed to serve in a "flank company" at the Battle of Monmouth, New Jersey, before sailing with his regiment from New York to Jamaica. This is possible as his regiment was part of the British army at that time. From Jamaica, he sailed with his fellow soldiers to Pensacola where he arrived late in 1778. Bowles was selected as a cadet at Pensacola, a position that allowed him to train to become an officer, but he blew his chances after he failed to return to camp from a brief leave in town. He either deserted or was dismissed from the service.

Destitute and only around 15 years old, the young man was, to paraphrase his biographer, too proud to beg and unwilling to work:

A party of the Creek nation were on their return home from Pensacola, whither they had come to receive their annual presents; and young Bowles, delighted with the novelty of situation now opened to him, joined the party, having thrown his regimental coat, in contempt of his oppressors, into the sea. [1]

Pensacola Bay at Floridatown.
The Native Americans were Seminoles from the Perryman towns on the lower Chattahoochee River. The most important of these communities was Tocktoethla, the village of Thomas Perryman which stood in today's Seminole County, Georgia. The other was Tellmochesses, the town of his son, William Perryman. It stood near Parramore Landing in modern Jackson County, Florida.

Bowles was accepted by the Perryman chiefs and their followers. Both Thomas and William spoke English, as did many of their followers, so it was easy for the young man to talk with them. Thomas Perryman, in particular, liked Bowles. The teenager was restless, though, and remained with his new friends only a few months before he decided to return to Pensacola:

William Augustus Bowles.
When he arrived on the opposite shore of the bay, he found a hogshead [i.e. barrel], which some British ships had left behind them; and Bowles, impatient of delay, without waiting for any other conveyance, like an Eskimaux [i.e. Eskimo], with the difference of a hogshead for a boat, the branch of a tree his mast, a blanket his sail, and a few stones his ballast, navigated the extensive shores of the harbour, in the day procuring the food of life, and beguiling the tediousness of time by fowling and fishing, and at night regaling on his prey; the sky his canopy, and the earth his bed. [2]

The sight of the future pirate bobbing around Pensacola Bay in a barrel with a blanket for a sail must have been entirely novel. His return to Pensacola likely was via the Pensacola-St. Augustine Road, a horse path that connected the capitals of the colonies of East and West Florida. Branch trails from it led to the Perryman towns, while its western terminus was at today's Floridatown in Santa Rosa County.

Bowles continued his adventures around the bay into the winter of 1779-1780, a time during which his biographer admitted that the young man first developed his dreams of glory.

Note: Learn more about the life of William Augustus Bowles in future articles and mark your calendar now to attend Pirate and Heritage Days at Three Rivers State Park in Sneads, Florida, on May 1-2, 2020. Please click here for more information.


Wednesday, November 6, 2019

Jacksonian Guard to bring history to life in Chattahoochee, Florida!

Noted Pensacola unit to represent U.S. troops at Scott 1817 event!

by Dale Cox

Soldiers of the Jacksonian Guard fire a salute during a Colors
Ceremony at Plaza Ferdinand in Pensacola. The celebrated
unit is coming to this year's Scott 1817 Seminole War event.
Pensacola's acclaimed Jacksonian Guard will be on hand as history comes to life at Chattahoochee's River Landing Park on December 6-8, 2019!

As promised in the wake of Hurricane Michael, the annual Scott 1817 Seminole War Battle reenactment and living history event is coming back to River Landing Park this year. Activities begin on Friday with education day for students from schools and home school organizations across the region Saturday and Sunday feature a wide range of activities for the whole family.

The Jacksonian Guard was established in 2016 to reenact soldiers of the United States and Spain during Florida's last days as a Spanish colony. This was the time of the First Seminole War (1817-1818) when the Scott Battle of 1817 was fought at the site of today's River Landing Park in Chattahoochee.

Drummers and fifers of the Jacksonian Guard portray the
youthful composition of the U.S. Army in 1817-1821.
Sponsored by Visit Pensacola and the University of West Florida Historic Trust, the Jacksonian Guard includes soldiers, fifers, and drummers who perform a Colors Ceremony on the third Saturday of every month in Plaza Ferdinand in Downtown Pensacola. That is where the actual change of flags took place on July 17, 1821, marking the official transfer of West Florida from Spain to the United States.

The Jacksonian Guard will be at River Landing Park on Saturday, December 7, and Sunday, December 8, this year, to provide a variety of demonstrations including military salutes, the manual of arms, fife and drum music, musket firing demonstrations. The soldiers will even introduce visitors to dance styles of the early 1800s! They will also take part in a unique memorial service for the soldiers and civilians, Native Americans, and Maroons (Black Seminoles) who lost their lives in the Scott battle on Saturday night, December 7, at 6:30 p.m. Eastern/5:30 p.m. Central.

Soldiers of the Jacksonian Guards demonstrate arms and
uniforms of the U.S. Army in 1817-1821.
The soldiers of the Jacksonian Guard will board the authentic 19th-century replica keelboat Aux Arc ("Ozark") on Saturday and Sunday for the reenactments of the Scott battle. They will represent the soldiers of the 4th and 7th U.S. Infantry Regiments who fought under Lt. Richard W. Scott on November 30, 1817, in the first U.S. defeat of the Seminole Wars. The battle ultimately led to Spain's surrender of Florida to the United States.

The Jacksonian Guard's appearance is made possible by a travel grant from Two Egg TV.

This year's battle reenactments will take place at 12 noon Eastern/11 a.m. Central on Saturday and 2 p.m. Eastern/1 p.m. Central on Sunday (December 7 & 8). 

The Scott 1817 event will take place daily from 9 a.m. until 3 p.m. Eastern (8 a.m. until 2 p.m. Central) on Friday through Sunday, December 6, 7, and 8, 2019.

Friday is education day, with hundreds of school students from throughout the area scheduled to attend. Saturday and Sunday are the main public days, and families from throughout the region are encouraged to attend. All events are family-friendly. This is an alcohol-free event. There will be food concessions, vendors, exhibits, and much more for families to enjoy.

The Scott 1817 event is free to attend. Donations are welcome and encouraged!

This year's event is sponsored in part by the Focus Foundation and Two Egg TV with support from Chattahoochee Main Street and the City of Chattahoochee.

For more information, please visit scott1817.com or www.facebook.com/scott1817.



Wednesday, October 23, 2019

Pensacola's Ghost in Yellow

A haunting reminder of Spain's last days in Florida.

by Dale Cox

A living history event at Historic Pensacola Village
in downtown Pensacola, Florida.
The sad story of the "Ghost in Yellow" is about a young woman named Felice who was so devoted to her country that she shed her own blood rather than accept Florida's transfer to the United States.

The story revolved around an old home near Plaza Ferdinand in Pensacola and was written for a newspaper by Ruby G. Powell in 1906. She repeated it as told by her grandmother:

...She was a Spanish girl. Years ago—nearly a hundred years, when this house was not much more than a frame structure, partly log—and there were only a few like it, for we had to have the lumber sawed by hand—my grand mother had a ward—Felice. Her father was a Spanish officer at the garrison at St. Marks; he died there and she was left in my grandmother’s charge. She was a devout Catholic and a loyal Spaniard, high strung and emotional. Felice had a lover at St. Marks, a dashing cavalaier, strikingly handsome in his glittering uniform and clinkering silver spurs. [1]

The garrison or fort at St. Marks referenced in the passage was the Spanish fort of San Marcos de Apalache. It is preserved at the state park of the same name at St. Marks, Florida.

The young woman Felice loved her country above all else, but she was filled with dread for Florida's role in its future:

Life from the time when Felice roamed the streets of the
Spanish town is recreated at Historic Pensacola Village.
Gov. Callava, the Spanish governor, was very kind to this young orphan girl, who lived at my grandfathers. He had befriended her soldier; had promised him a commission and many acres of land in Florida, if they would make their hole here. But Felice had strange forebodings.

“Florida, it is not for my people; it is for the Americans,” she would say, and often, after returning home from a visit and talk to the governor, her face was troubled, and she was very quiet for hours at a time, crooning over some strange old Spanish songs as she plied her needle between the rows of beautiful drawnwork for which she was so skilled. Her face grew sadder each day, after it was known that Spain had signed the treaty ceding Florida to the United States.

When a transport would come up from St. Marks, bringing soldiers to be taken back to Spain, Felice would kiss her crucifix, murmuring, in broken tones, "Ay de las vencidas," (woe to the vanquished) while her tears would overflow and drop on her work. [2]

The young woman's fatal date with destiny came on July 17, 1821. United States troops marched into Pensacola from their camp just outside town to meet their Spanish counterparts for a ceremony marking the official change of flags. 

The Lavalle House, seen here, stood in Pensacola at the
time of the transfer of Florida from Spain to the United States.
Andrew Jackson had twice captured the city at the head of conquering armies. This time he came as military governor to accept possession of West Florida from Spain under the terms of the Adams-Onis Treaty. 

Felice watched from her window as he arrived in fulfillment of his duties:

But that her country had given up Florida—their own ‘land of flowers,’ theirs in its kindred warmth of climate, theirs by right of discovery, and glory of conquest—had given it up for a paltry consideration of money and claims, cut her to the heart.

As the Spanish flag touched the ground and our own was raised aloft, the band burst into a new and patriotic air. There was no cheering; the Spanish faces were stolid, stony as ever; they relaxed not a muscle, but Felice made the sign of the cross, and turned from the window with a sob. That night my grandmother sent a servant to call her to supper, and she was found at her mirror, seated in front of the low dressing table. She wore a yellow dress. A single red rose pinned on her left shoulder, gave the needed touch—her national colors. Her long hair hung down as if she were about to comb it out, but buried deep in her heart was a stiletto, her hand still clutched the handle tensely, and the warm blood dyed the front of her gown. She was dead, but her blood could not avail to save Florida for Spain. [3]

The flag of Spain flies from the front of the Lavalle House
at Historic Pensacola Village. The colors of this flag were
reproduced in Felice's death scene.
Felice's feet never set foot on Florida soil after the colony became an American territory. Still, her spirit continued to linger in the old house that stood somewhere in the heart of today's downtown Pensacola. 

Ms. Powell's grandmother, who recited the story, told of seeing her in around 1896:

I, myself, have seen her once. ‘Twas Christmas, ten years ago. She sat over in that corner, combing out her hair. I could see her yellow dress as plainly as I see you, and could even see the stiletto glisten in her breast. [4]

She did not try to speak to the ghost, fearing that she would disappear as soon as she did so. 

Felice gained no love for the United States after her death, and her ghost even associated itself with the Confederate soldiers who occupied Pensacola in 1861-1862. One sighting of her occurred on either November 22, 1861, or January 1, 1862, when the thunder of cannon fire shook Pensacola Bay:

A display at Plaza Ferdinand in Pensacola shows what
archaeologists found beneath the surface. Traces of the city's
old Spanish fortifications run beneath this grassy lawn.
When my father and husband were quartered here, with their company of soldiers during the blockade of the civil war, they were awakened one night by the firing of cannon, and rushing from their beds, to seize their guns, almost stumbled upon a women dressed in yellow, seated in front of the fireplace, combing out her hair. My father knew at once who it was, but Mac started toward her. ‘What the,’ he began, but he had hardly gotten the words out of his mouth when she seemed suddenly to disappear through the walls. The story leaked out, in some way, and soon every soldier in Pensacola knew about the ghost in yellow, and some even declared that they saw her moving around the men when the cannonading was heaviest. [5]

The specter made another appearance when Union forces occupied Pensacola on May 10, 1862:

...On the day that the federals got possession of the city, several of them came in the house, intending to burn it. They, too, saw the ghost in yellow, knowing that all the refugees had fled, and that there were no women and children in Pensacola, they were very much started at the apparition. But one, an Irishman, braver than his companions, put out his hand to touch her, when she seemed to crumble, and not a trace of her was left. The soldiers were so frightened that they fled, and not one could be induced to go near the house again. [6]

The fate of the Ghost in Yellow is unknown. Perhaps she survived the eventual demolition of the house to which she was attached and continues to roam the streets and sidewalks of downtown Pensacola. If so, she is no doubt comforted by the efforts of the University of West Florida and other entities to preserve and protect the old city's rich Spanish history.

A great way to learn about Pensacola's history is by visiting Historic Pensacola. The complex features "four museums, tours, & more!" Click here for more information: www.historicpensacola.org.

References

[1] Ruby G. Powell, "The Ghost in Yellow," The Weekly True Democrat, December 28, 1906, reprinted from the Florida Times-Union, December 25, 1906.
[2] Ibid.
[3] Ibid.
[4] Ibid.
[5] Ibid.
[6] Ibid.

Tuesday, May 2, 2017

How Ocheesee almost replaced Tallahassee as capital of Florida

The wooden frame capitol building in Tallahassee as it
appeared in 1831 when Ocheesee almost became state capital.
State Archives of Florida
Tallahassee had been capital of Florida for fewer than ten years when it almost lost the title to the Apalachicola River valley.

Pensacola and St. Augustine had never been thrilled that the new town being carved from the wilderness had taken their ancient titles as the twin capital cities of Florida. The population boom taking place in in Tallahassee, however, was rapidly solidifying its status.

The 1830 census revealed that Leon County, of which Tallahassee was the county seat, had become Florida's most populous county with 6,494 residents. Gadsden County was next with 4,895 while Jackson County was third with 3,907. 

Pensacola and St. Augustine had had lost their centuries old positions as the population centers of Florida in just nine years.

Florida as it appeared in 1832.
(Click to enlarge)
Anti-Tallahassee delegates to the Florida Territorial Legislative Council knew that 1831 might be their last chance to wrest the title of capital away from the growing town in the hills of Middle Florida. When the Council members convened that year, they took their best shot.

The delegates met at the tiny frame capitol building in Tallahassee in 1831 and voted for the appointment of a commission to review other potential sites for the establishment of a permanent capital city. 

The members of this commission began their work and three places quickly emerged as the leading candidates to replace Tallahassee. They were Ocheesee Bluff in Calhoun County, Mt. Vernon (Chattahoochee) in Gadsden County and an unidentified point on the Suwannee River. 

Mt. Vernon, which was soon renamed Chattahoochee due to mail confusion with the Alabama community of the same name, was the only one of these places that had become an actual town by 1831. It had been picked to become the site for Florida's new U.S. Arsenal and the arrival of steamboat traffic on the Apalachicola River spurred its growing development as an important river port.

The red clay of Ocheesee Bluff in Calhoun County, Florida.
Ocheesee Bluff, until recently the site of the Creek Indian village of Ocheesee Talofa, was also located on the Apalachicola River. The Federal Road crossed the river at Ocheesee, which was soon to be named the seat of government for short-lived Fayette County. 

Interests from the East Coast of Florida favored a location somewhere on the Suwannee River. A city there would have to be built from scratch, but unlike Tallahassee would be closer to St. Augustine, Jacksonville and Fernandina while also offering the advantage of river transportation.

It was a close decision:

SEAT OF GOVERNMENT. - The Commissioners appointed under the Resolution of the last Council have made separate reports - one infavor of Mount Vernon - two infavor of Ocheesee and one infavor of a point on the Suwanee as the seat of Government. - (Tallahassee Floridian, January 10, 1832).

This historic live oak tree at Ocheesee Bluff survives from
the days of the town of Ocheesee, Florida.
Three of the four commissioners favored a location on the Apalachicola River, but split between Mt. Vernon and Ocheesee. The latter place received a plurality of the total vote, but since the commission included four members it ended in a tie with Mt. Vernon and a site on the Suwanee.

Unable to break this deadlock, the Council delegates themselves decided to wait another year or two and see what might happen:

...The public buildings at Tallahassee will answer, until the progressive improvement of the Country shall show what point is likely to continue central, as regards the population of the Territory. - There are immense bodies of unexplored land of good quality in East Florida, and the Suwanee will probably be the center of population within ten years. - (Tallahassee Floridian, January 10, 1832).

The restored gunpowder magazine of the U.S. Arsenal at
Chattahoochee is now the Apalachicola Arsenal Museum.
It was not to be. The next ten years saw Leon County's dramatic growth continue while neighboring Jefferson County surged past Jackson to become the third most populous of Florida's counties. The St. Joseph Convention approved a proposed constitution for Florida and the territory was admitted to the Union as a state in 1845.

Ocheesee lost its chance to become capital of Florida by a single vote. Had the Apalachicola River supports on the commission unified their votes, the state capitol building would likely be there today. Instead, it is a ghost town. An old oak tree at Ocheesee Landing and the historic Gregory House across the river in Torreya State Park are virtually all that remain to prove it ever existed. 

Columbus, the town that soon grew on the Suwannee River, is also a ghost town today. Its cemetery and a few other traces can be seen at Suwannee River State Park.

Chattahoochee still survives as a small but charming city of just under 4,000 people. Its trail system has been named one of the finest of any small town in America and the Apalachicola River is both a Florida Blueway and a National Scenic Trail.

Tallahassee remains the state capital of Florida.

You can learn more about the ghost town of Ocheesee and Chattahoochee's historic River Landing Park in these videos from TwoEgg.TV:




Friday, August 8, 2014

#67 A Spanish knight in Jackson County (100 Great Things about Jackson County, Florida)

Flag of Spain flies over San Marcos de Apalache
St. Marks, Florida
The little known story of a Spanish knight and his exploration of our area is #67 on my list of 100 Great Things about Jackson County, Florida.

Please click here to see the full list as it is unveiled.

Don Laureano de Torres y Ayala was a Knight of the Order of Santiago and newly appointed Governor of Florida when he was ordered to cross the Panhandle  and explore the territory between Pensacola and Mobile Bays. He carried out that exploration 321 years ago in 1693.

If Torres y Ayala's name seems familiar, it may be because he is the featured villain in the video game Assassin's Creed IV: Black Flag.

Don Laureano de Torres y Ayala
Courtesy Assassin's Creed IV: Black Flag
Entry into the Order of Santiago, which bore the Spanish name for St. James, was highly restricted. A candidate had to prove that he, his parents and his grandparents were of noble blood. Jews, Muslims, converts to Christianity, attorneys, moneylenders, notaries public, retail merchants and those without the wealth to support themselves were barred from membership.

In anticipation of the planting of a new settlement on Pensacola Bay, the King of Spain on June 26, 1692, ordered an exploration of the lands between that point and Mobile Bay. His orders were delivered to Don Laureano de Torres y Ayala in Mexico City on January 12, 1693, by the Viceroy of New Spain.

Sailing aboard a frigate from Havana, Cuba, on May 2, 1693, the governor reached Florida at San Marcos de Apalache (present-day St. Marks) thirteen days later. After making proper arrangements for supply by sea, he marched west from Mission San Luis (present-day Tallahassee) on June 8, 1693. Following him was a force of more than 100 Spanish soldiers and priests.

New Interpretive Station at site of Mission San Carlos
Sneads, Florida
The expedition reached the Apalachicola River at present-day Chattahoochee on the evening of June 9th. Torres y Ayala crossed over that same day with the priests and a small escort. They landed on the Jackson County shore and followed the trail up the hill to Mission San Carlos.

Then the westernmost Spanish outpost in all of Florida, the mission stood on the site of today's Jim Woodruff Dam Overlook at Sneads. Its location is Tour Stop #3 on the Jackson County Spanish Heritage Trail and is marked by an interpretive kiosk.

Torres y Ayala remained at Mission San Carlos for two nights as he waited for the rest of his command to cross the river and bring up the horses. He was able to secure the services of five Chacato Indian guides that seemed to have some familiarity with the way to Pensacola Bay.

The governor described his departure from San Carlos in his detailed journal:

Blue Springs in Jackson County, Florida
On the 11th I started northwest, and, after traveling five leagues, pitched camp by an excellent spring which, they told me, flows into the Apalachicola river. These five leagues from the Chacato village to this spring, called Calistobe, are through pine groves, except for some woods around small ponds. - Don Laureano de Torres y Ayala, Journal Entry for June 11, 1693.

 The spring that early Spanish explorers called Calistobe or Calistoble was today's Blue Springs. They believed it was the head of the Chipola River, which they knew flowed into the Apalachicola near the Gulf. It is Tour Stop #1 on the Jackson County Spanish Heritage Trail.

The road that the expedition followed from Mission San Carlos to the spring was the original Old Spanish Trail. It followed today's Reddoch Road from State Highway 69 to Blue Springs.A section of the original pathway can still be seen just inside the entrance to Blue Springs Recreational Area and is Tour Stop #2 on the Jackson County Spanish Heritage Trail. Free guidebooks to the new 150-mile tour are available at the historic Russ House & Visitor Center in Marianna.  Interpretive kiosks mark each of the stops.

Cross of the Knights of Santiago
The Knight of Santiago and his followers camped at Blue Springs on the night of June 11, 1693. The next morning the resumed their march, following the trail to the northwest and the Natural Bridge of the Chipola in today's Florida Caverns State Park. Torres y Ayala's description indicates that water was high and the Natural Bridge muddy when he arrived:

...In a short distance we ran into considerable difficulty in getting both the horses and the men on foot through because of the many bogs, creeks, and woods; the horses became mired to their cinch straps, and the men on foot to their waists. However, our determination caused bridges and brush roads to be built so that we could keep moving forward on foot, with the unloaded horses falling and getting up again. - Don Laureano de Torres y Ayala, Journal entry for June 12, 1693.

The men eventually made it through the mud and bogs, emerging from the swamp near Blue Hole Spring. Because of the use of the Natural Bridge by early explorers, Florida Caverns State Park is Tour Stop #9 on the Jackson County Spanish Heritage Trail.

A Cave in Jackson County
Continuing forward on the Old Spanish Trail, they soon reached a large cave where the lost Spanish mission of San Nicolas de Tolentino had stood 19 years earlier:

...I pitched camp in a cave, a very pleasant spot called San Nicolas, where there was formerly a Chacato village. This cave is formed of calcareous stone and has a very large spring of water; there our entire pack train took shelter after we had traveled five leagues this day. - Don Laureano de Torres y Ayala, Journal entry for June 12, 1693.

The cave where the San Nicolas stood and the governor's command spent the night of June 12, 1693, has never been positively identified. It was likely one of several large caves about three miles northwest of Marianna on private property. An interpretive kiosk stands at the intersection of State Highway 73 and Union Road, which has been designated Tour Stop #10 on the Jackson County Spanish Heritage Trail.

The cave where Torres y Ayala camped?
Being a knight of royal blood had its privileges.  Exhausted from the difficult journey, Torres y Ayala decided to rest at the cave for an extra day while sending part of his force ahead under Fray Rodrigo de la Barreda to open a better road.  The Franciscan friar set out on the 13th with 25 men to while the governor remained behind to enjoy cold water and cool temperatures of the cave.

Leaving the San Nicolas cave on the 14th after his day of rest, Torres y Ayala followed the trail blazed by Barreda:

...Then I went four leagues west-northwest through beautiful woods of laurel, live oak, chestnut, oak, sassafras and pine. I spent the night at the same spot where the very reverend father, Friar Rodrigo, and his band has been the night before. On June 15 I continued northwest through a league of pine groves, and then crossed a deep creek.... - Don Laureano de Torres y Ayala, Journal entries for June 14-15, 1693.

Pensacola Bay
A Spanish league of that day was a little under three miles. The deep creek that the governor described crossing on June 15, 1693, was Holmes Creek. The exact site where he crossed it and left Jackson County is not known, but based on the direction of his march it may have been the old Marianna ford near today's Tri-County Airport south of Graceville.

Don Laureano de Torres y Ayala eventually reached Pensacola Bay. In doing so he completed the first known crossing of the Florida Panhandle by a European explorer. His march was the last known crossing of Jackson County by a Spanish military force. Mission San Carlos at Sneads was destroyed three years later in an attack by Creek Indians and was never rebuilt.

The real march of this long-forgotten Spanish knight and video game villain more than 300 years ago is #67 on our list of 100 Great Things about Jackson County, Florida.


Thursday, April 10, 2014

#82 The Pensacola-St. Augustine Road (100 Great Things about Jackson County, Florida)

A surviving section of the Pensacola-St. Augustine Road
The historic Pensacola-St. Augustine Road is #82 on our list of 100 Great Things about Jackson County, Florida.

Please click here to see the complete list as it is unveiled.

In 1778 the American Revolution was underway and its outcome was far from certain. While most Americans of today have heard of the 13 Colonies and their fight for independence from Great Britain, few realize that there were other colonies in North America that did not join the war against King George III.

1776 map shows East and West Florida
East and West Florida were both British colonies when the Revolutionary War began and both remained loyal to King and Country throughout the conflict. Founded by the Spanish, the Florida colonies had passed to the control of Great Britain at the end of the French & Indian (or Seven Years) War in 1763.

The British administered Florida as two colonies. East Florida extended from the Atlantic Ocean to the Apalachicola and Chattahoochee Rivers, while West Florida extended from the Apalachicola and Chattahoochee all the way to the Mississippi. What is now Jackson County formed the northeastern corner of British West Florida.

Purcell-Stuart Map of 1778, showing the Pensacola-St. Augustine Road
The only two cities in all of present-day Florida were Pensacola and St. Augustine. To link them, the British connected a series of Indian trails and parts of the Old Spanish Trail to form a new road that they called the Pensacola-St. Augustine Road. This early "super highway" was the predecessor of today's U.S. 90 and I-10.

Heritage Village in Graceville
A stop on the Jackson County Spanish Heritage Trail
In Jackson County, the route of the Pensacola-St. Augustine road is roughly followed by today's State Highway 2. It crossed Holmes Creek into the county where Graceville stands today and crossed through the modern sites of Campbellton and Malone before reaching the Chattahoochee River at Neal's Landing, where the Creek Indian town of Ekanachatte ("Red Ground") stood at the time.

The road was mapped in 1778 when a British force marched across Florida from Pensacola to reinforce St. Augustine against an expected attack by American Patriots. Accompanying that expedition was cartographer Joseph Purcell and his map of the Pensacola-St. Augustine Road provides a fascinating look back through time.

In western Jackson County, using Purcell's map as a guide, it appears that the historic road generally followed modern State Highway 2 east from Graceville to Campbellton. What is now Holmes Creek was shown on the map as the "Weekaywee Hatchee." This Hitchiti Creek term means "Spring Creek" or "Spring River." If the name looks familiar, there is a reason. Today's term Weeki Wachi (as in Weeki Wachi Springs) is a corruption of the Creek term Weekaywee Hatchee.

Coosa Old Fields (today's Campbellton)
As shown on the Purcell-Stuart Map of 1778
The road between Holmes Creek and today's Campbellton was described by Purcell as "small and little trod." Where Campbellton stands today, the map shows that in 1778 was a place called the Coosa Old Fields.

These "old fields" had been the site of the Spanish conversion or part-time church of San Antonio. The Chacato inhabitants who lived there had fled the area in 1675 following a rebellion against the Spanish missionaries. Most of them wound up living on the Coosa River in Alabama. Living on the Coosa Old Fields when Purcell passed through was a small band of Creeks who had a village on the site of present-day Campbellton that they called Puckanawhitla ("Peach Tree").

Forks of the Creeks swamp
From Campbellton the road followed the approximate route of today's State Highway 2 east, but as it neared Marshal Creek it veered to the southeast. Today's St. Phillips Road is an actual part of the original Pensacola-St. Augustine Road.

The route by which the road crossed the Forks of the Creeks swamps is no longer in use today, but Purcell noted crossing what he called the "Chanpooly" (today's Chipola River). The creek that he called the "Chanpooly" was today's Cowarts Creek, a main tributary of the Chipola.

Trace of Pensacola-St. Augustine Road
Notice State Highway 2 through the trees at left.
From the Forks of the Creeks to the Chattahoochee River, the old road roughly followed the route of today's State Highway 2. A section of the original can be seen running along the north side of the modern highway in the vicinity of its intersection with Pleasant Ridge Road.

The road passed through the modern town of Malone and continued on to the Chattahoochee River. The section of Biscayne Road between Concord Road and the point where Biscayne intersects with State Highway 2 is a part of the original Pensacola-St. Augustine Road that is still in use today.

Chattahoochee River at Neal's Landing Park
The historic roadway reached the Chattahoochee River at today's Neal's Landing Park. There in 1778 stood the large Creek village of Ekanachatte and the trading post of its chief, an individual called "The Bully" for his prowess as a businessman. It is a little known fact that British troops camped at what is now Neal's Landing during the American Revolution.

The Pensacola-St. Augustine Road was replaced in the 1820s by the Old Federal Road and still later by U.S. Highway 90 and eventually Interstate 10, all of which followed more direct routes between Pensacola and St. Augustine. Its surviving portions, however, remain important historical landmarks in Jackson County that date from before the time of the American Revolution.

Jackson County Spanish Heritage Trail (in red)
Click to Enlarge
Today's Jackson County Spanish Heritage Trail commemorates in part the historic roadway. A 150-mile driving tour that connects eleven important historic sites from the Spanish era, part of its route follows State Highway 2 from Neal's Landing Park to Graceville.

An interpretive kiosk has been erected in Malone to tell the story of the Pensacola-St. Augustine Road. It stands in the city park facing Highway 71, one-half block south of Highway 2. Malone is a great place to stop for lunch while driving the Jackson County Spanish Heritage Trail.

If you are interested in learning more about the new Jackson County Spanish Heritage Trail, guide books are available for free at the historic Russ House and Visitor Center on West Lafayette Street in Marianna. You can also learn more by visiting the Spanish Heritage Trail section of the TDC website at:  http://visitjacksoncountyfla.com/heritage/spanish-heritage-trail.


Wednesday, March 5, 2014

#97 Daniel Boone's Long Walk (100 Great Things about Jackson County, Florida)

Daniel Boone
Painted in old age by Chester Harding
#97 on our list of 100 Great Things about Jackson County is Daniel Boone's Long Walk. Click here to read previous posts in this series.

It is a little known fact that in 1765 (250 years ago next year), the famed American explorer and pioneer Daniel Boone passed through Jackson County on his long walk across Florida. He later told the story of the journey to his son, Nathan Boone, who recorded it along with many of his father's other memories.

After 250 years of Spanish rule, Florida was surrendered to Great Britain at the end of the French & Indian War in 1763. Spain had sided with France in that conflict and lost Florida as a result.

As the British took over the colony, a steady flow of settlers began to move down from Georgia, the Carolinas and even Virginia. Pensacola and St. Augustine were the primary destinations of these settlers, but others spread out through the back country where they were welcomed by the Lower Creek and Seminole Indians. The British were on good terms with the American Indians who lived in Florida.

Daniel Boone and his dog
Drawing by Alonzo Chappel

Two years after Great Britain gained control of Florida, Daniel Boone joined a party of men headed south on a journey of exploration. He then lived in North Carolina, was 31 years old and had survived Braddock's Defeat, the bloody ambush and defeat of British troops portrayed in the book and movie, Last of the Mohicans. Boone, in fact, was the primary model for the hero of the story, Natty Bumpo (renamed Nathaniel Poe for the movie).

Contrary to legend, Daniel Boone did not wear a coonskin cap. He was from a Quaker family and wore a flat brimmed hat. He had blonde hair and blue eyes.

Boone and his fellow travelers came south through Georgia to St. Augustine. From there, with Boone leading the way, the men set out on a more than 400 mile journey to Pensacola through the vast Florida wilderness. They were following a trail called the Pensacola-St. Augustine Road.

The "road" was really little more than a footpath that wound its way west from St. Augustine to the Suwannee River and then on to Lake Miccosukee near present-day Tallahassee. From there, the trail split into two paths, both of which angled north into what is now Decatur County, Georgia, before reuniting just outside the city of Bainbridge.

Daniel Boone leading a party of settlers
Painting by George Caleb Bingham
A settler and trader named James Burges (or Burgess) had settled where Bainbridge stands today and the explorers crossed the Flint River at his settlement. They then followed the trail on past the present site of Donalsonville, Georgia, and crossed the Chattahoochee River into Jackson County and back into Florida at Ekanachatte ("Red Ground"), a Lower Creek village at what is now called Neal's Landing.

Assuming that Boone and the other men remained on the main trail, from Neal's Landing they passed west along the route of today's State Highway 2. Their journey would have taken them across the sites of today's towns of Malone, Campbellton and Graceville. They crossed Holmes Creek out of Jackson and into Holmes County near Graceville.

1778 Map of the road followed by Boone
None of these towns or counties existed then, of course, and the only people that Boone encountered in what later became Jackson County were the Creek Indians who lived at Ekanachatte and at a small town called Pucknawhitla ("Peach Tree") which stood on the present site of Campbellton.

Section of road followed by Boone through Jackson County
The journey was long and difficult. At one point Boone and the others lost track of the path and became confused in the wilderness. He later told his son Nathan that he never was lost in his life, but was confused once for a few days.

Daniel Boone had not been impressed with the lands he saw between St. Augustine and the Chattahoochee River, but once he crossed into what is now Jackson County he found richer lands and pristine forests. Deer and other animals were plentiful and the pioneer was impressed.

Daniel Boone from Life
Painting by John James Audubon
After the group reached Pensacola, Boone made arrangements to acquire land in West Florida (the British divided the modern state into two colonies, East Florida and West Florida). He planned to relocate to the area and become one of its first English settlers.

The explorer's wife, Rebecca, had other ideas. She firmly objected to the move because it would take her so far from her family in North Carolina. Boone complied with his wife's wishes and the idea of moving to Florida was abandoned.

Other members of the pioneer's family, however, would follow in his footsteps. Among the earliest American settlers of Jackson County was Gilley Crawford Boone Neel, a member of Boone's family. She first settled with her husband and children near Neal's Landing and later lived in the Paront community north of Grand Ridge. She and many other relatives of Daniel Boone are buried at Cowpen Pond Cemetery near Dellwood.

Great Oaks in Greenwood, Florida
Other relatives of the famed pioneer and his wife settled in Greenwood. Rebecca Bryan Boone was a member of North Carolina's noted Bryan family. That family was instrumental in the founding of Greenwood and Great Oaks, a beautiful antebellum home, was originally the Bryan Mansion. Members of the Boone and Bryan families are buried in numerous cemeteries around Greenwood.

The historic Pensacola-St. Augustine Road, which Boone followed across Florida, is interpreted on the new Jackson County Spanish Heritage Trail. A kiosk at City Park on Highway 71 in downtown Malone tells the story of the historic road.  Click here for more information.

Daniel Boone's long walk is an almost forgotten footnote of Florida history, but it is one of the 100 Great Things about Jackson County, Florida.